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中国商报（记者 赵熠如 文/图）“小枣糕、大产业”，坐落于沁河流域的山西省晋城市阳城县润城镇，从家家户户做枣糕，到形成规模化的枣糕产业，再到让流传千年的枣糕手艺走出村镇、走向全国，蒸蒸日上的枣糕生意为润城镇铺就了一条“独家”致富路。
从炭火到作坊
在润城镇润城村刚刚整修改造过的街道两旁，随处可见百姓支起的枣糕摊。春节氛围逐渐浓郁，枣糕生意也变得红火。
拐入一条小巷，枣糕手工艺人李更义的家就在眼前。
今年70岁的李更义已经做了20多年枣糕。从蒸笼、笼屉，再到蒸箱，从独自支一个炭火开工，再到成立一个家庭小作坊，李更义的枣糕生意越做越大。
“临过年时每家每户都要做枣糕。刚开始就是七八个邻居之间互相帮忙做，用家里的炭火、一百来斤面，做上几百个枣糕，用来走亲访友。后来就发展成了作坊，把周围邻居里手艺好的人集中起来，慢慢地就做大了，而且开始对外售卖。”李更义说。
2023年1月，枣糕手工艺人李更义在家中接受中国商报记者的采访。
作为春节走亲访友的伴手礼，从每年农历11月开始，一直到春节前，是枣糕生产的“旺季”。进入11月后，村民们就开始进行持续近20天的淘麦、泡麦、磨面；而到了12月初时，便进入和面、醒发、蒸制阶段。
“我们进入腊月开始做枣糕，一直到腊月二十四、二十五。顾客对枣糕的需求基本集中在这一个月。”李更义表示。
枣糕的生产带动镇上老百姓的生活也渐渐好了起来。“我们这个作坊一天可以生产三四千个枣糕，整个腊月可以生产不到十万个枣糕。有的作坊产量更大，可以达到十几万个。”李更义说。
2023年1月，山西省晋城市阳城县润城镇润城村李更义家作坊中，村民们正在制作枣糕。
农户生产出来的枣糕，一部分被政府采购，另一部分则自己对外出售。如果按照每个枣糕最低售价两三元来计算，一个作坊在腊月里做枣糕的收入可以达到30万—40万元。
“这个村子不能靠田地为生。”李更义对记者表示，“村子里的人大多在外面打工，年轻的都出去了。留在村子里的中年妇女、老年人负责做枣糕，也是一个很好的增收方式。”
在几乎人人都会做枣糕的润城村，老手艺不愁传承，李更义的手艺就是从母亲那里学来的。“我从小就跟着母亲学做枣糕。而且我父亲是一名厨师，我从20岁起就当厨师，这是我非常热爱的营生。”谈起枣糕的传承来，李更义的脸上流露出喜悦。
2023年1月，山西省晋城市阳城县润城镇润城村李更义家作坊中，制作完成的枣糕放在架子上晾干。
“无糖自甜”的秘诀
润城镇之所以能将枣糕从民俗美食发展为产业，除了手艺传承外，地理位置也有着非常重要的影响。
“整个县里最多只有三个乡镇在做枣糕，这是特殊的地理环境所决定的。润城镇位于沁河流域，沁河流域水资源丰富，小麦长得饱满，只有这样的小麦才可以做出好的枣糕来。”阳城和利源润城手工麦芽枣糕有限责任公司总经理李鹏说。
枣糕的品质与口感不仅需要好的小麦，也需要特殊的制作工艺——“泡麦面”。
泡麦面，也就是麦芽面，需要将泡好的麦子沥干水，在一定的温度和湿度中催它出芽。麦芽的长短要适度，麦芽短，蒸出的枣糕不甜；麦芽长，则枣糕不易成型。而且在磨成面粉的前几天，还需要调配泡麦的干湿度，整个过程需要有经验的师傅在旁边时刻关注。这是“润城枣糕、无糖自甜”的关键因素。
“枣糕的口味主要取决于麦芽面的含量。麦芽面含量越高，口味越好；麦芽面含量越低，口味越差。”李鹏表示。
除此之外，润城镇还根据《山西省地方标准—阳城泡麦面枣糕制作规范》，结合润城枣糕实操工艺，修订完善提升了润城枣糕的地方标准，以进一步统一工艺和口感。
2023年1月，山西省晋城市阳城县润城镇润城村，街道两旁随处可见老百姓的枣糕摊。
小枣糕大产业
村民们制作出来的枣糕，事实上并不愁卖。
“我们做的枣糕最远能卖到北京、上海等全国其他地方，而且因为我们做枣糕时间比较长，算是‘老牌子’了，会有一些‘回头客’，每年到这个时候，他们就会打电话过来订枣糕。”李更义说。
政府扶持也是产业发展的重要因素。
“镇政府会指导每个村成立合作社，由合作社来组织村民生产。如果有一些村民本来就在制作枣糕出售，那么政府会对其进行收购、保鲜、包装的指导，并进一步助力市场和品牌的打造。” 润城镇宣传委员卫丽芳表示，“这样的模式不仅保证了市场供应，还进一步提高了老百姓的积极性，带动了群众致富。”
阳城和利源润城手工麦芽枣糕有限责任公司便是在这样的背景下诞生的。作为润城镇党委政府领导下成立的枣糕运营平台，它的经营目标是实现润城枣糕产业的标准化、规范化、品牌化。
“今年的战略目标，首先是将市场重心回归商超，做到全年均在商超销售；其次是打造线上电商渠道，在多平台申请网络店铺；然后我们会进一步加大市场宣传力度，将80%以上的利润用来做广告宣传以及参加展销会等。”李鹏说，“除此之外，我们还会在今年推出更多种类的枣糕产品和包装类型，以满足更多的市场需求。”
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